Review of the Early Evening Menu at Kaji in Manchester

We headed to Manchester to check out the food scene and we found an absolute corker of a restaurant in one of our other favourite UK city.

Manchester has an incredible energy and rhythm that flows through every sinew. From its industrial and musical heritage to its warm and colourful inhabitants, Manchester has fire in its belly, so we wanted to experience a daring restaurant which mirrors the beating heart of this great city.

From the pioneering and award-winning Chef Patron Steven Smith - formerly Chef Patron and owner of award-winning gastropub The Freemasons Wiswell - Kaji is a Japanese restaurant like no other we have experienced before. Heading there you may be expecting calm, quiet minimalism or reserved pretentiousness, but you’ll find none of this here. As you turn the corner from the sleek unassuming reception you soon realise that Kaji is on fire. Huge screens depicting burning digital art, a large open kitchen bursting with flames, a DJ belting out the soundtrack of the restaurant's beating heart, this evening is black and red. You’d be forgiven for thinking you are in a nightclub scene from a John Wick movie, but fear not, the only blades are expertly wielded by the kitchen staff, slicing sushi and spinning up plates of sumptuous Japanese classics alongside bold new fusions of global and Japanese flavours with local produce. Dishes are being delivered to tables like phoenix's from the flames.

Lunch and Early evening Menu

We arrive at Kaji at the perfect time to indulge in one of their very reasonable menu offerings. £30 will buy you a welcome snack, starter and main, plus the option to add sides, a dessert and wine pairing. The wine is tempting, but the cocktail menu lures us in with unique, classy yet bold looking drinks.

Our welcome snack was a wolf in sheep’s clothing. The unassumingly named “Bread and Butter” is actually a spicy flavour bomb of crispy chilli buns with a pickled Jalepeno butter. I challenge anyone to even finish the sentence “I don’t want to fill myself up on the bread”

There was nothing slimy about our oyster starters. Forget “down in one”, these Fried Louët-Feisser Oysters are crisp, with a smokey hot sauce with lime to squeeze over and freshen things up. Accompanying this was a clever plate of crisp and sticky katsu spiced chicken wings with an incredible Thai green mouse to mop up. It was nothing like I've tasted before.

Our climactic mains looked every bit as good as they tasted. A tender cod loin nestled into a champagne and white miso sauce, with vibrant green swirls it is quite spectacular. The Himalayan Salt Aged Hangar steak is an absolute umami-fest. Dark, rich, sticky and so soft you want to weep with each bite. Topped with ox cheek stuffed shiitake mushrooms and red miso and sansho pepper sauce. Naturally we added a dessert to our early dinner and the result was not a wind-down to our climax. A rich dark-chocolate mousse with a tangy passionfruit sorbet cutting right through is delightful, and the accompanying bbq Pedro Ximénez soaked pineapple delivers a completely new experience to the humble fruit.

The Cocktail Menu

There are so many good cocktails on this menu that you may find yourself coming back to Kaji time and time again just to try the next one. Each drink has a surprising ingredient that totally works, from a wasabi infused Japanese Mary, to Maple Gin with Lapsang Tea.

We recommend the Spicy Citrus, a punchy and smoky affair with mezcal, Yuzu sake, agave syrup and togarashi spice, or for something really unusual, the Black Sesame may look like you are drinking charcoal water, but is is more akin to an old fashioned with Toki whiskey, black sesame surup and umeshu activated charcoal.

Our Verdict

If you haven’t guessed already, our love affair with Kaji has only just begun. With its devilish pulsating interior, bold punchy yet delicately crafted and delicious dishes, relaxed and friendly hosts and a cocktail menu to die for, it may well be one of our top reasons to get back to Manchester sharpish.

If you’re looking for an unforgettable dining experience, clear your calendar for February 5th. Chef Patron Steven Smith of KAJI Manchester is teaming up with the award-winning Dave Wall of The Unruly Pig for a one-night-only culinary collaboration that promises to be nothing short of extraordinary.

This exclusive evening will feature a meticulously curated 9-course tasting menu, where KAJI’s bold, flame-inspired creations meet the rich, dynamic European flavors that The Unruly Pig is celebrated for. Expect a symphony of innovation and flavor as two culinary powerhouses join forces to deliver a dining experience like no other.

Address: 64 Bridge St, Manchester, M3 3BN

To book visit www.kajimcr.com

Written by Rick Hartley

Photography courtesy of KIJI