Review of TA-KO in Stoke Newington

TA-KO is a creative Asian-inspired restaurant and cocktail bar, from the team behind the popular Victory Mansion, offering a vibrant experience with bold Asian flavors served in soft corn tortillas. Along with a selection of sides and a vast range of expertly crafted cocktails. The team has managed to nail the cross-continental taste vibes.

Easing our way in, we started with an intriguing, pickled jalapeño margarita made with Cazcabel tequila, fresh lime, pickled red jalapeño, agave and chilli salt, and a spicy soda mocktail mixed with pickled jalapeño cordial, fresh lime, soda, and mint. Coupled with a portion of house tortilla chips served with Kaffir lime, ginger & tomato salsa, and a white bean, miso & sesame dip, both the margarita and the chips were delicious and offered an innovative take on something typically seen on a classic Mexican menu.

The highlight for us was the spicy soda mocktail. So often, mocktails can be unoriginal or lack depth when substituting flavours for spirits, but this was truly delicious and flavourful. You could easily spend an evening sipping on this without missing the stronger alternative.

We chose a mixed selection of appetizers, TA-KOs, and sides, and were especially pleased that the team served them in waves rather than all at once. We began with the spicy shiitake crispy rice; little balls of crispy sushi rice, turmeric pickled daikon, and mirin & soy shiitake mushrooms. These were little bites of heaven, and I could have easily devoured a few plates of them.

For sides, we opted for the cucumber salad; pickled cucumber, coconut tahini dressing, and chilli, finished with a fried rice cracker, and the ‘MSG’ Fries, which I think was a clever play on words but totally plausible given how delicious they were. These nori-fried potatoes, served with kampot pepper mayo and salt & vinegar powder, were delightfully moreish—an absolute must-try.

The TA-KOs come singularly, so we tried two vegetarian and two fish options. The meat-free choices being the Jackfruit; siu jackfruit & shiitake, mango, pickled red onion, and the Cauliflower; crispy cauliflower, black bean & tamarind ragu, avocado, and pepper mayo. The super soft shells were piled high with fresh ingredients and toppings, a couple of these are enough to fill you up. For the fish, we opted for the Trout; blackened river trout, smoked aubergine nahm prik, and lime labneh, and the Seabass; torched seabass, mandarin sambal, pickles, crispy onion, and umami ketchup. Both were generous portions, and these highly creative fillings emphasized garnishing the dishes to perfection.

Craving something sweet, we shared a plate of the Dough-Jo’s as our post dinner finisher. Adorable drops of doughnut batter, palm sugar salt caramel, cinnamon, and ginger. It was a super decadent finish that reminded us of those amazing ring doughnuts you get at the seaside.

Our new favourite Stoke Newington local, the Victory Mansion team has done an exceptional job with their TA-KO concept, maintaining a fun and relaxed setting while upgrading it with a serious food offering and an updated cocktail selection. The team is just as friendly and helpful as always, making for a lovely, low-key, but delicious evening out.

Address: 18 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7PL

Written by Jordan Crowley

Photography courtesy of TA-KO