Review of Straits Kitchen at Pan Pacific London

The words “fusion food” may to some, conjure up images of sushi hot dogs, or paella burritos. Adam Bateman’s menu at Straits kitchen however, is less about the culinary union of multiple nation’s flavours, and more to do with combining the amazing flavours of South East Asia with British ingredients and crafted using Western cooking techniques to produce something quite special. 

We’ve heard utterings of North Atlantic cod laksa, and a unique afternoon tea with an Asian twist, our interest piqued and our eyes wide, we take a trip up to the first floor of Pan Pacific London, near Liverpool Street Station in eager anticipation.

With muted natural tones, limewashed walls, dark wooden furniture and flickers of sage green upholstery, the vibe is earthy elegance. Occasional lanterns, plants and stunning prints provide nods to the far east.

With every dish on the menu looking totally worth trying we take the pressure out of our hands and opt for the experience menu, a 5 course tasting experience which isn’t a complete bank breaker at £65 per head. The Experience Menu

We gleefully journey through 5 exceptional dishes, delivered impeccably by the knowledgeable and super-friendly restaurant team.

First dish - Scottish Salmon 

This plate of delicate, thinly sliced salmon is surprisingly vibrant and gently illuminated with dots of green peas and wasabi. The wasabi gives just the required amount of heat without overwhelming the dish. A drizzle of sweet miso brings a light savoury touch. Delicious.

Second dish - Chicken Satay Skewer

I’ve had more satay skewers than I can shake a….skewer at, but this is another level. It’s oh so tender, the peanut coating is deep and rich and toasted coconut and sesame raise this humble dish to new heights.

Third dish - Steamed Prawn and Chive Dumplings

I’m as impressed with the ribbing on these dumplings as I am with the flavour. The slightly translucent morsels are surprisingly fresh, with fried garlic bringing a slight savoury crunch to the dish.

The dumplings are served with their own broth, removing the need for you to decide which sauce to dunk into, possibly my highlight of the menu.

Dish 4 - Hereford Beef Short Rib

Ok I lied, The menu highlight is a tie. This “fall of the bone” tender rib is umami heaven. Dark, deep and glistening in sweet soy. It sits on a bed of the smoothest miso polenta. Incredible

Dish 5 - Gula Melaka Crème Brûlée

The desert is a rollercoaster in itself, with twists at each spoonful. The creme brulees' crisp caramelised coconut roof gives way to a centre of mango compote and a coriander sorbet that initially confuses but ultimately delights your tastebuds.

A note on the wine

In addition to the exciting menu, you can add wine pairing to the experience for £35 a head. This is a good chance to experience some exciting new wines such as a Chinese pinot nor.

I am a huge fan of South East Asian food (they had me at steamed dumplings) but Straits Kitchen has raised the bar. This innovative and exciting menu delivers an ooh with each dish delivered to your table and I will most certainly be returning, there's a char siu pork cheek with my name on it.

To book your table at Straits Kitchen visit https://www.panpacific.com

Experience Menu £65 | Wine Pairing £35

Written by Rick Hartley

Photography by Nyla Sammons