It’s a dark rainy October evening in Shoreditch, squinting through the downpour you observe the blurry glow of the various bars and restaurants that line the edges of Hoxton Square. One glow in particular promises a respite from the UK drizzle, with its grass umbrellas and seemingly colourful interior. We head for shelter in Cottons for a slice of island life and some warm sunshine food.

Cottons isn’t the new kid on the block when it comes to Caribbean cuisine, with a history of serving Londoners dating back to 1985. The Hoxton Square branch is the latest edition, having been relocated from just around the corner on Curtain Road. The Hoxton branch is their largest establishment to date, with 60 covers in the restaurant, a downstairs bar serving 300 types of rum (yes please), and an adjoining takeaway accessible from Old Street.

The restaurant’s interior has touches of the tropical vibe you would expect, but with a more polished finish than some of the brands other establishments.

The menu is a celebration of the Caribbean’s flavoursome and culturally diverse food, with dishes such as salt fish fritters, jerk wings, curried goat, channa dhal and creole grilled Mahi Mahi.

As fans of the Indian inspired flavours of Trinidad, we couldn’t resist ordering the doubles. For those familiar with the much loved street food, Cotton’s version may not end up dripping through your fingers as expected, but the curried channa is nicely spiced and tasty.

The salt fish fritters are pleasant enough, the sweet mango chutney dip and Bajan pepper compote is the perfect fit for this dish.

Trying to steer away from my usual choice of anything jerk related, I ordered the mixed fish platter, a magnificently satisfying plate of seabass, tilapia, red bream grilled king prawns, crispy squid, plantain, and (ok I cheated) a deeply flavoured jerk sauce. Served with the classic rice and peas, you can’t go too wrong for the ultimate comfort food.

A surprising star dish was the dessert, a gooey, melty warm chocolate fondant, with a generous dollop of rum and raisin ice cream and dulche de leche, it was just heavenly.

For a slice of the island life on a grey evening, food which feels like a warm hug, or just for an education in rum, head to Cottons Hoxton.

Website: https://www.cottons-restaurant.co.uk/shoreditch

Address: 45-47 Hoxton Square, London N1 6PD

Written by Rick Hartley